SOSO Clothing https://sosoclothing.se/ Custom Denim Tue, 06 May 2025 07:16:37 +0000 en hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.1 https://sosoclothing.se/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/cropped-Site-Icon-1-60x60.jpg SOSO Clothing https://sosoclothing.se/ 32 32 Timber King: SOSO’s Rugged Heavyweight Flannel https://sosoclothing.se/timber-king-sosos-rugged-heavyweight-flannel/ https://sosoclothing.se/timber-king-sosos-rugged-heavyweight-flannel/#respond Tue, 19 Nov 2024 09:07:18 +0000 https://sosoclothing.se/?p=50066 Everything You Need to Know About Our New Heavy Flannels We know that nothing goes as well with heavy selvedge as flannel. It’s a neck-and-neck race between flannel and canvas, but, at the line, flannel takes it by a whisker. Canvas looks great, but plaid flannels bring a logger’s breakfast worth of touchable softness to […]

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Everything You Need to Know About Our New Heavy Flannels

We know that nothing goes as well with heavy selvedge as flannel. It’s a neck-and-neck race between flannel and canvas, but, at the line, flannel takes it by a whisker. Canvas looks great, but plaid flannels bring a logger’s breakfast worth of touchable softness to denim-heavy outfits–and without losing an ounce of that rugged character.

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**The bottom snap should fasten the same place your jeans do**
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**The striking herringbone ombré pattern**

From the beginning, we have included flannels among our shirting fabrics, but it quickly became apparent that these lightweight flannels were no match for our heaviest denims–especially not when we compared them to some of the world’s heaviest flannels coming out of Japan. We needed something beefier, something that would add even more weight to our reputation for heavy and rugged gear.

It might not surprise you to learn that fabric suppliers don’t have rolls of heavy flannel just hanging around the shop. We had to work with our partner mills to develop a trio of heavy flannels from scratch, starting with the Australian cotton that we’ve been using in our proprietary denims for the last few years.

By spinning this Australian cotton into extremely thick yarns (7s yarns–even thicker than the 5s yarns in our 33 oz. selvedge), we were able to weave a robust and exceptionally warm shirting fabric. The herringbone pattern allows for a subtler blending of tones (more complex and striking by far than the classic buffalo plaid).

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**The inside and outside of our red ombre**

The fabric is double brushed on the inside and single brushed on the outside. As warm as it is comfortable, it’s definitely not an all-season fabric, but we didn’t design it with year-round use in mind. It’s a fall/winter staple that really comes into its own when the leaves start to fall and remains essential until patio season is in full swing.

We debuted the blue ombre in 2024, and, almost immediately, early adopters were clamouring for more. We had two more colours waiting in the wings, so we pulled the trigger on the red and green versions that, since their release, have become our most popular shirting fabrics by a wide margin. The latest drop was the amazing new purple version.

We field a ton of questions about our heavy flannels, most of which deal with fitting and styling. Here’s everything you need to know about how our heavy SOSO flannels.

Fitting Your SOSO Flannel

Our stock fits are cut generously. Before picking a size, you should do some quick measurements. Measure your best-fitting shirt and compare those numbers to the chart below. If this is your first time measuring, you can find info about how we measure here

If our stock sizes aren’t a perfect fit for your frame, you can tweak any of the measurements. As far as we know, SOSO is the only brand to offer fully customizable heavy flannels. If you’ve struggled with short and boxy Japanese sizes, it’s likely that these are the heavy flannels you’ve been waiting for. No matter what your measurements, we’ve got you covered. 

Expect them to snug up in the wash. We conducted tests and found that, after either a cool or a cold wash, the shirts lose around 1.5-2 centimetres in the length and the sleeves. With a bit of tugging while the shirt is damp, you can get some of this length back, but it’s best to just prepare for some shrinkage when ordering. 

If you’re going with a stock size, choose the one that gives you a bit of extra length and room in the chest and shoulders. If you’re going with custom measurements, add a couple of centimetres for a perfect post-wash fit. Remember that the shirts are designed to be used as layering pieces, so, rather than a skin-tight fit, shoot for a generous and comfortable fit that can easily accommodate tees, henleys, thermals, and sweatshirts.

Finally, make sure that you’ve got enough length in the sleeves and body so that you can raise your arms without exposing either your forearms or your stomach. If measuring another shirt, use one with sleeves that cover your wrist completely. The body should be long enough to cover the entry point of your pockets. The last snap or button should sit around the point where you fasten your jeans, allowing the tails of the shirt to spread over your hips.

Styling Your SOSO Flannel

Heavy flannels are meant to be worn with the tails hanging loose. They don’t drape so much as they fall straight down towards the floor. If you prefer to tuck in your flannels, one of our lighter-weight fabrics will probably be a better choice. The 13.5 oz. flannel fabric will, if tucked, add a considerable amount of bulk to your waist, making you look like a well-padded mall Santa.

They can pair easily with a wide range of casual and rugged pieces. They’re a natural fit with selvedge jeans and jackets, especially heavy ones. For best results, pair the flannel with jeans or jackets that are at least as heavy as the flannel. For best results, pick a selvedge that is north of 15 oz. 

Denim is only one option among many. We’ve seen our flannels paired brilliantly with canvas, sashiko, leather, and waxed fabrics. Be aware that the heavy flannels seem to work better with solid colours than with patterned fabrics. Pattern mixing is a delicate and difficult art. Keep things simple by pairing your flannel with solid, complementary colours.

We picked each of the colours carefully so that our heavy flannels would work with a wide range of tones. Still, some combinations will work better than others. The red ombre will work exceptionally well with blue, brown, white/cream, and black. The blue ombre will look excellent with yellow, orange, brown, pink, or red. The green looks amazing with black, white, brown, and orange.

You can fasten as many (or as few) of the snaps as you like. When closed (especially if buttoned all the way to the throat), the shirt will substitute nicely for a light jacket. Whether closed or open, the flannel looks its best when worn over a light under-layer. It feels great when worn next to the skin, but it somehow looks incomplete without something underneath it.

Finally, a word of advice for those who are planning to pair their flannels with waist-length jackets and vests. Traditionally cut denim trucker jackets, workwear vests, leather biker jackets, and bombers usually sit on the belt-line. When paired with longer shirts, the result is an unsightly apron of fabric that extends below the jacket.

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**This flannel is much too long to be paired with the classic trucker jacket**
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**Longer jackets, like this 25 oz. Chore Coat, are a much better fit for the flannel**

If you already have a jacket or vest you’re planning to wear with the flannel, keep this in mind when picking your length. Anything more than about an inch of shirt extending below your jacket will be too much. If you’ve followed our sizing advice above, your flannel will likely hang a few inches below your waist, so you might want to consider adding a hip-length jacket like our chore coat to your collection.

The Flannels of the Future

The heavy flannels have been such an immediate fan favourite that we’re expecting them to be a dependable member of the SOSO line-up going forward. We are planning to add more colours down the road, but these three colours will likely be the backbone of our flannel line-up for a long time to come.

As with all our pieces, we feel strongly that you’ll get more out of our flannels by wearing them than you ever will by collecting them. Try a SOSO flannel and you’ll see that it’s the only flannel you need. Wear it at every opportunity. In time, it’ll start to feel like a member of the family.

It won’t fade like some of our other fabrics, but it will improve with steady wear, becoming softer over time. When, after years of steady use, the elbows are threadbare and the cuffs are frayed, come back for a replacement. Until then, enjoy the journey with your new SOSO heavy flannel. We’re sure you’ll feel, as we do, that it’s one of the best things we’ve ever done.

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Unveiling the Ghost Family: The Ultimate Denim for Every Denim Head https://sosoclothing.se/unveiling-the-ghost-family-the-ultimate-denim-for-every-denim-head/ https://sosoclothing.se/unveiling-the-ghost-family-the-ultimate-denim-for-every-denim-head/#respond Tue, 30 Apr 2024 08:44:31 +0000 https://sosoclothing.se/?p=46818 Dive into the essence of craftsmanship with SOSO’s Ghost Family, showcasing our exceptional 20oz Ghost Indigo, 20oz Ghost Black, and 25oz Ghost Indigo Jeans. These masterpieces are the core denims in our range, crafted from premium Australian cotton, designed to reward you with mesmerizing fades that tell your own unique story. Starting off with the […]

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Dive into the essence of craftsmanship with SOSO’s Ghost Family, showcasing our exceptional 20oz Ghost Indigo, 20oz Ghost Black, and 25oz Ghost Indigo Jeans. These masterpieces are the core denims in our range, crafted from premium Australian cotton, designed to reward you with mesmerizing fades that tell your own unique story.

Starting off with the 20oz Ghost Indigo, named for its super dark indigo dye, this denim is built for those who crave massive fade potential. Crafted from 100% Australian premium cotton with a classic red selvedge ID, these jeans are made for an exceptional fading journey, transforming with each wear into a unique expression of the wearer’s lifestyle.

Introducing the 20oz Ghost Black, our latest addition to the Ghost Family. This deep black selvedge denim delivers a bold, stealthy look straight out of the box, but don’t be fooled—over time, it will develop stunning grey fades, giving it a unique, worn-in character. Like its indigo counterpart, it’s made from 100% Australian cotton and features a red selvedge ID, ensuring top-tier quality and durability.

For those who prefer an even heavier, more textured experience, the 25oz Ghost Indigo Jeans take things up a notch. Featuring the same indigo dye as the 20oz, this beastly denim invites an even more intense fading adventure—perfect for those who want to beat up their raws and achieve dramatic, high-contrast fades.

Here at SOSO, customization is key. Choose from a variety of fits—slim, tapered, or relaxed—and further personalize with different thread colors, buttons, and rivets. Each detail allows you to make your jeans truly your own.

Top Features of the Ghost Denim:

    • Premium Australian Cotton: For exceptional quality.
    • Deep Indigo Dye: Designed for high contrast fading.
    • Classic Selvedge ID: The red ID marks a high-quality craftsmanship.
    • Rope Dyed: Ensures long-lasting color and distinctive fade patterns.
    • Super heavyweight: The perfect all year around denims.

Find your perfect pair and discover our commitment to this traditional denim experience at sosobrothers. These jeans are more than clothing; they are a canvas for your lifestyle. Embrace the journey of the fades. Are you ready to walk the path of the Ghost?

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The SOSO 33OZ TBOL Denim Fade Challenge: Join The Heaviest Denim Fade Competition in the World… https://sosoclothing.se/the-soso-33oz-tbol-denim-fade-challenge/ https://sosoclothing.se/the-soso-33oz-tbol-denim-fade-challenge/#respond Fri, 15 Sep 2023 10:37:30 +0000 https://sosoclothing.se/?p=43290 SOSO Annual Fade Competition: 33OZ TBOL Edition Are you ready to take your denim game to the next level? Brace yourselves, denim enthusiasts, because the world’s first heaviest denim fade competition is here, and it’s bigger and better than ever! Starting on January 1st, 2024, you have the chance to prove your worthy of the […]

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SOSO Annual Fade Competition: 33OZ TBOL Edition

Are you ready to take your denim game to the next level? Brace yourselves, denim enthusiasts, because the world’s first heaviest denim fade competition is here, and it’s bigger and better than ever! Starting on January 1st, 2024, you have the chance to prove your worthy of the fades by wearing the legendary 33OZ TBOL selvedge fabric for an entire year. This is your golden opportunity to showcase your dedication to denim and compete for fantastic prizes while doing what you love (or will hate) after 365 days!

As you gear up for this epic denim adventure, remember that this fade competition runs alongside the renowned Indigo Invitational Y4. We highly recommend you consider joining both competitions for an even more exciting and rewarding experience.

Don’t miss out on this unique opportunity to showcase your denim fading skills and connect with fellow enthusiasts from around the world. Starts once every year.

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Competition Details

  • Start Date: January 1st, 2025
  • Registration Period: Open Now Until December 31st, 2024
  • Rules: It’s simple – wear 33OZ TBOL fabric and enjoy the journey! No complex guidelines, just your passion for denim.
  • Submission: Join sosobrothers on Telegram for monthly fade updates and connect with fellow denim enthusiasts. It’s the perfect platform to share your journey and gain inspiration from others.
  • Life Insurance Policy: Not applicable – this competition is all about fun and fades, so leave your worries behind and embrace the denim challenge of a lifetime.

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SOSO Sashiko Denim Range: Embrace The Stitched Elegance https://sosoclothing.se/soso-sashiko-denim-range-embrace-the-stitched-elegance/ https://sosoclothing.se/soso-sashiko-denim-range-embrace-the-stitched-elegance/#respond Fri, 08 Sep 2023 12:40:11 +0000 https://sosoclothing.se/?p=43229 SOSO Sashiko Denim SOSO Sashiko denim transcends the realm of fashion; it’s a living canvas where history, craftsmanship, and modern style converge. In this article, we embark on a captivating journey through the intricate world of the SOSO Sashiko denim range, where threads whisper tales of heritage, and every stitch is a testament to artistry. […]

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SOSO Sashiko Denim

SOSO Sashiko denim transcends the realm of fashion; it’s a living canvas where history, craftsmanship, and modern style converge. In this article, we embark on a captivating journey through the intricate world of the SOSO Sashiko denim range, where threads whisper tales of heritage, and every stitch is a testament to artistry.

A Stitching Tradition

Japan, the birthplace of Sashiko, witnessed its humble beginnings as a practical method to mend the clothing of farmers and fishermen. Over time, this humble stitching evolved into an art form, crossing the boundaries of time and culture. Today, it stands as a bridge connecting the rich heritage of Japan with the contemporary world.

Sashiko, originating from the Japanese term “little stabs,” is more than just a technique; it’s a cherished tradition passed down through generations. Every Sashiko stitch is not merely utilitarian; it’s a stroke of artistry, creating mesmerizing patterns that dance across the fabric. The dedication and precision in each stitch make it a visual and tactile delight.

SOSO Sashiko: A Contemporary Twist

What sets SOSO Sashiko denim apart is its harmonious fusion of tradition with modernity. It isn’t just a fashion statement; it’s a declaration of admiration for craftsmanship and a celebration of heritage. SOSO Sashiko denim preserves the essence of Sashiko while infusing it with the versatile and enduring charm of denim fabric.

Crafting SOSO Sashiko Denim

Creating SOSO Sashiko denim is a labor of love and skill. It requires carefully selected denim fabric of the highest quality, specialized needles, and the deft hands of artisans who understand the intricate dance of thread and fabric. Each stitch is made with meticulous precision, resulting in captivating patterns that narrate stories of dedication and mastery.

The Appeal of SOSO Sashiko Denim

Beyond its aesthetic allure, SOSO Sashiko denim offers durability and longevity. Each piece is a unique masterpiece, with no two garments being exactly alike. The beauty of SOSO custom denim lies in its individuality, as the artisans’ creativity and craftsmanship shine through in every thread.

SOSO Sashiko Denim Range

We are especially proud to have carry four different colors. Black, Navy Blue and Army Sashiko. While it may be considered an investment, the quality, cultural significance, and longevity of these pieces make them a valuable addition to any wardrobe.

The versatility of SOSO Sashiko denim allows for a myriad of styling options. From casual outings to formal events, this unique fabric can be tailored to suit various occasions. Embracing SOSO Sashiko denim means embracing a style that effortlessly blends tradition with modernity, creating a look that is distinctly and uniquely yours.

Why SOSO Sashiko Denim is a Must-Have

Sashiko denim isn’t just clothing; it’s a masterpiece that breathes life into your wardrobe. It adds depth and character to your personal style while demonstrating respect for Japanese culture and the skilled artisans who create these wearable works of art. With its fusion of history, artistry, and style, it stands as a must-have for individuals who appreciate the profound beauty of denim with a touch of heritage

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A Closer Look at Our Latest Denim Release – The SOSO 22oz Red Weft https://sosoclothing.se/a-closer-look-at-our-latest-denim-release-the-soso-22oz-red-weft/ https://sosoclothing.se/a-closer-look-at-our-latest-denim-release-the-soso-22oz-red-weft/#respond Tue, 08 Aug 2023 12:23:48 +0000 https://sosoclothing.se/?p=42918 Introduction We are thrilled to introduce our latest denim release that brings a wave of excitement among us – Johan, Jannis, and Fredrik Milton. Over the years, we’ve showcased some truly remarkable denim pieces in our collection. Lately, we’ve embarked on a journey of experimentation with premium Australian cotton woven into exquisite fabrics. Exploring Vibrant […]

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Introduction

We are thrilled to introduce our latest denim release that brings a wave of excitement among us – Johan, Jannis, and Fredrik Milton. Over the years, we’ve showcased some truly remarkable denim pieces in our collection. Lately, we’ve embarked on a journey of experimentation with premium Australian cotton woven into exquisite fabrics.

Exploring Vibrant Wefts

The market has been witnessing a surge in the popularity of colorful wefts from premium Japanese brands and others. Inspired by this trend and fueled by the success of our 22oz brown weft, we gathered around our team table to brainstorm fresh concepts. When we put together a denim that proudly bears the SOSO mark, we have all of you, our extended family, in mind. Our process involves scouring the globe for intriguing combinations, forum discussions, social media inspirations, and more. Early in our journey, red weft denim captured our attention and kindled our curiosity.

Humble Beginnings and Patient Observations

In the nascent stages of our brand’s evolution, as young entrepreneurs, the idea of creating such a masterpiece seemed financially unattainable. We observed from a distance as Japanese brands meticulously laid the foundation for the popularity of these unique wefts. However, as they say, time and patience are virtues that ultimately pay off.

The Unveiling of The SOSO 22oz Red Weft

Today, we stand with immense pride as we present our newest addition to the denim realm: The 22oz Red Weft. Crafted from handpicked Australian family-farmed cotton, the denim narrates a tale of dedication and craftsmanship. The warp yarns have been deeply infused with rich indigo dye, ensuring optimal fading over time. Yet, the spotlight remains on the Aka (Red in Japanese) weft – a harmonious blend of darker red and elegant burgundy hues. This thoughtful design showcases a play of colors that strikes the perfect balance between subtlety and strength. As it gracefully fades, the deep indigo blue backdrop further enhances the beauty of the weft.

A Canvas for Individuality and Expression

This masterpiece denim promises wearers a canvas to express their individuality. As the fabric ages, it unveils stunning fades that uniquely reflect each wearer’s journey. With its versatility, the 22OZ IXBR is poised to make a statement at next year’s Indigo Invitational Y4. Its potential is limitless, inviting denim enthusiasts to explore a myriad of possibilities.

Availability and Pricing

The opportunity to own this remarkable piece starts at an accessible price point of $249. A testament to our commitment to providing excellence without compromise.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the 22oz Red Weft stands as a testament to our dedication to crafting denim that goes beyond fabric – it tells a story, captures moments, and becomes a part of your journey. From humble beginnings to global recognition, we are honored to share this creation with you. Experience the artistry of premium Australian cotton woven into an impeccable denim that holds the promise of unforgettable fades.

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The Dark Side of the Loom: The Seven Hurdles that Raw Denim Lovers Have All Cleared https://sosoclothing.se/the-dark-side-of-the-loom-the-seven-hurdles-that-raw-denim-lovers-have-all-cleared/ https://sosoclothing.se/the-dark-side-of-the-loom-the-seven-hurdles-that-raw-denim-lovers-have-all-cleared/#respond Mon, 19 Jun 2023 18:56:03 +0000 https://sosoclothing.se/?p=42123 The Dark Side of the Loom: The Seven Hurdles that Raw Denim Lovers Have All Cleared We’ve spilled gallons of ink singing the praises of raw denim. How it looks and feels, its durability, its authenticity, its relatively small environmental footprint—these are all big draw cards for raw denim. But we understand better than most […]

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The Dark Side of the Loom: The Seven Hurdles that Raw Denim Lovers Have All Cleared

We’ve spilled gallons of ink singing the praises of raw denim. How it looks and feels, its durability, its authenticity, its relatively small environmental footprint—these are all big draw cards for raw denim. But we understand better than most that raw denim is still a tough sell for first timers. Some of those who dip a toe in the pool get tired of struggling with their jeans. Rather than sticking it out, they re-trace their steps back to the world of mass-market denim, where things are (we will admit) considerably easier.

This is understandable. We can face facts: the raw denim experience isn’t a pleasure cruise. It’s an obstacle course. We need to clear a row of hurdles before we get to the stages when it can start feeling like a love match. Some clear these obstacles with ease, sometimes in a single leap; others fall at the first hurdle.

Perhaps you’re one of those who fell early in the race. You’re sitting on the sidelines, blowing cool air onto your skinned knees and contemplating a second run. Before you pick yourself up and dust yourself off, here’s a look at the other hurdles that are still ahead of you.

Hurdle #1: Cost

The first two hurdles are the ones that trip up most of those who either never try or give up on raw denim after their first attempt. The first one, cost, is a big one. If you’re used to non-selvedge, non-designer denim, a good pair of selvedge costs at least twice as much as you usually pay for a pair of jeans—perhaps much more than this, depending on where and how you shop.

Selvedge denim, produced slowly on narrow looms, is costlier to produce. We’ve outlined some of the reasons for this here, so we won’t go into much detail. Suffice to say, raw denim is an entirely different animal than mass-market, non-selvedge denim. Invest in a well-made pair and you’ll soon see why denimheads have sworn off the cheap stuff for good. Denimheads aren’t a wasteful bunch. They are getting significant value for their money.

Hurdle #2: Discomfort

The second big hurdle trips up nearly as many as the first. Raw denim feels nothing like the pre-faded and lightweight denim that you might be used to. Especially if the denim is heavy, it will feel as stiff as cardboard the first time you slide it on. Rather than moving with you, it will resist you at every step, and the backs of your hands will be raw if you regularly slide your hands into your pockets.

Think of the denim’s heaviness and stiffness as a feature, not a bug. The beautiful features of contrast fades (whiskers, honeycombs, and stacks) are a product of the struggle between a man and his jeans. Raw denim needs to be subdued to become comfortable, and it won’t lay down without a fight. The discomfort will pass when you’ve beaten some of the fight out of your pair. The resulting fades will be more than worth the effort.

Hurdle #3: Time

The fades and the comfort will come, but you’ll need to wait for them. If you’re wearing your jeans daily or near daily, you should expect to have the upper hand within a few months. If you’re only able to wear them once or twice a week, you’ll have to wait much longer than that.

Not everybody has the patience to wait out the long break-in period, and fewer still have the fortitude required to stay with the jeans until the fades have truly arrived. If it were easy and fast, everybody would have a beautifully faded pair in their collection. Beautiful fades are rare for a reason.

Even if you’re enjoying the process, resist the urge to add more pairs to your collection until you’ve well and truly faded the pair you started. Make the most of your time by spending all of it with just one pair. The fastest way to a collection full of beautifully faded pairs is to fade one pair at a time. If you need some encouragement, consider joining a fade competition like the Indigo Invitational.  

Hurdle #4: The Smell

If it’s contrast fades that you want, you’ll have to put off that first wash for as long as possible. The longer you keep you can go between washes, the sharper those contrasts will be. The most important wash will be the first one. Aim for around the six-month mark for that first wash, but be aware that you may fall significantly short of this. Let your nose guide you.

If your jeans start to give off an odour, turning them inside out and letting them air out (ideally in the sun) for a few hours is usually enough to freshen them up. If that’s not enough, no matter how much you want those contrasts, it’s time to give them a bath. Don’t subject your loved ones, friends, or coworkers to the smell of sour jeans. If they stop passing the sniff test, wash them.

Hurdle #5: Shrink and Stretch

Far more than you’ll find with mass-market denim, the sizing experience for raw denim is one of trial and error. You might get lucky and find a brand that fits you perfectly both before and after that all-important first wash, but, even if you stick with a brand you know and love, some denims might surprise you. It might shrink by as much as 10% the first time it is exposed to water, or it might relax too much with wear, leading to a less-than-ideal fit.

Almost every denimhead has a story about the perfect pair that became unwearable after wash or wear. To avoid a similar experience, make sure you include both stretch and shrinkage in your calculations when looking at sizes. With most sanforized denims, the shrink and stretch will cancel each other out, but even sanforized denims can catch you by surprise. If you can’t find clear information about how much shrinkage and stretch you can expect, ask for it. 

Hurdle #6: Selection

Most brands in the raw denim space feature a core collection of fits and a range of just a few denims to choose from. If you’re looking for something dark and classically cut, you’ll be spoiled for choice. If you’re looking for something unique—a colour other than dark blue, or an atypical fit—your list of options will shrink considerably.

If you’re finding it difficult to find exactly what you’re looking for, your best bet will be made-to-measure denim from a brand that has a wide range of raw denims and fits that be customized from top to bottom. You can start your custom denim journey with SOSO here

Hurdle #7: Availability

The final hurdle might not be a hurdle at all—depending on where you live. The world of retail has been slow to catch on to the benefits of raw denim, and this goes double in smaller cities. In denim hubs like New York, San Francisco, Amsterdam, London, and Stockholm, raw denim won’t be difficult to track down. In smaller cities or towns, though, you’ll be lucky to find a single stockist.

Most denimheads purchase their jeans online. This means that most of us (myself included) only rarely get to try before we buy. Avoid disappointment by never compromising on your fit numbers. Even if the price is perfect, if the measurements aren’t on the money, walk away. Find a brand that speaks to you and build a collection slowly, or find a made-to-measure brand and tweak the measurements until you’ve found your forever pair.

Clear this final hurdle, and the rest of the track will be smooth going. Once you’ve gone through the difficult process of finding, purchasing, breaking in, and fading a pair of raw denim, it’s likely that you’ll never go back to the mass-market brands. Until you’ve cleared those hurdles, raw denim will seem like a difficult choice—or maybe even the wrong one. Stick with it and, in time, you’ll learn that it was the best denim decision you ever made. 

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Selvedge Style Vol. 2: Perfect Below-the-Cuff Pairings for Selvedge Denim https://sosoclothing.se/selvedge-style-vol-2-perfect-below-the-cuff-pairings-for-selvedge-denim/ https://sosoclothing.se/selvedge-style-vol-2-perfect-below-the-cuff-pairings-for-selvedge-denim/#respond Mon, 13 Feb 2023 10:41:37 +0000 https://sosoclothing.se/?p=40298 Selvedge Style Vol. 2: Perfect Below-the-Cuff Pairings for Selvedge Denim Unlike any other fabric, selvedge denim upends our style. Not only does it move denim to the centre of our personal style, it also changes what we wear both above the belt and below the cuff. In Selvedge Style Vol. 1, we looked at shirts […]

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Selvedge Style Vol. 2: Perfect Below-the-Cuff Pairings for Selvedge Denim

Unlike any other fabric, selvedge denim upends our style. Not only does it move denim to the centre of our personal style, it also changes what we wear both above the belt and below the cuff. In Selvedge Style Vol. 1, we looked at shirts that pair well with selvedge denim. Now it’s time to look below the cuff, at the footwear that will elevate your denim-based look.

When considering the options below, keep in mind that these are only the most popular footwear choices for denimheads. You might not find cowboy boots, combat boots, or sandals on this list, but that doesn’t mean that we are suggesting that you should steer clear. If they are a cornerstone of your personal style, keep on keepin’ on. 

If, however, you are open to upgrading your footwear and elevating your selvedge style, the six styles below, ranging from casual athletic shoes to top-shelf leather footwear, will be an excellent place to start. 

Six-Inch Lace-Up Boots

**Photo by Lucas Botz**

The force is strong with this one. Once you’ve got the jeans, the pull towards similarly rugged footwear is almost irresistible, and nothing pulls quite as hard as six-inch boots. If you’re relatively new to the selvedge scene, it’s only a matter of time before you add a pair of six-inch boots to your shoe rack. 

While boots from makers like Viberg, White’s, and Grant Stone are the enthusiast’s boots of choice, Red Wing’s Iron Ranger is far and away the most popular boot in the scene. It has earned uniform status on the back of its ability to combine durability, stylishness, and value like few other boots on the market.

**Photo by @yonagrinberg**

Six-inch lace-ups are by far the most adaptable form of footwear on this list. No matter how you like your jeans to fit or where you like to cuff them, these low-cut boots will never let you down. They will pair perfectly with all our cuts, and like our selvedge, a well-made pair of boots made from full-grain leather will just keep getting better and better with age.

Moc Toes

Moc toe boots may not be everybody’s cup of tea. When fresh out of the box, they look as big as canoes on those with double-digit shoe sizes, and plenty of folks prefer leather soles and stacked heels to the look of flat-bottomed crepe soles. That said, the Red Wing 877 was the boot that kickstarted the heavy-duty heritage revolution in Japan. Their connection to well-made selvedge has deep and unbreakable roots.

With wear, the comfortable toe box wraps around the toes, making them look considerably smaller. Keep this in mind when trying them on. Also remember that those who swear by moc toes claim that the combination of the high-walled toe box and the crepe sole make these the comfiest boots that you’ll ever wear. Red Wing’s 877 and 875 remain the most popular moc toes, but Grant Stone’s version tends to come out ahead in boot showdowns. Be sure to compare them before buying.

Especially for those with bigger feet, moc toes tend to look their best with a bit of room at the opening. Skinny fits like our Skinny Luke or dramatically tapered ones might not work exceptionally well with this boot. Slide into a comfortable fit and the moc toes will be in their element.

Engineer Boots

**Photo from Himel Brothers**

When denim started to become a fashionable fabric in the ‘40s and ‘50s, the engineer boot (due to its association with motorcycle-riding rebels) became a crucial component of the look. Helped along by heartthrobs like Marlon Brando, the simple combination of leather, denim, and the white tee became the bedrock of perpetually youthful American style. Like rock and roll, the style has demonstrated exceptional staying power, ensuring the engineer boot’s continued relevance in scenes where denim and leather mix. 

**Motor Engineers**

If you’re considering adding some engineers to your arsenal, look for makers like Wesco, Viberg, or John Lofgren. If you’re looking for a solid entry to the market, the Red Wing 2268 will be a good choice. If you want the best, look for Japanese brands like Clinch and Motor. The premium bootmakers are not cheap, but the engineer boot is often the flagship in their line-up. Expect to pay a premium for bona fide leather artistry.

Be aware that, thanks to their wide shafts, engineer boots will not fit inside slim tapered or skinny fits. For best results, stick to wide-legged cuts that recall vintage denim. Our Loose Clark, Classic Fit, and Relaxed Ralph will do the trick. 

Sneakers

While leather and denim go together like coffee and cake, sneakers and jeans make stranger bedfellows in adult styles. However, with the growing preference for casual looks both at home and at work, denimheads are discovering that a fresh pair of sneaks can pair perfectly with selvedge and can, in some settings, even be more appropriate than scuffed up boots. 

The key to pulling it off is to leave the dirty old trainers in the gym bag. Reach instead for something sharp and clean. For lace-ups, New Balance’s 996 are a favorite, as are the ever-popular Chuck Taylors. There’s also significant overlap between selvedge fans and Nike collectors (with Air Jordans and Air Force Ones being popular choices). For slip-ons, Vans lead the pack. To break with convention, try something from Shoes Like Pottery, PRAS, or Armando Cabral.

 

**Picture from James Dant**

Low-top sneakers look their best when you flash a little ankle, so pick from one of our tighter or tapered fits like the Skinny Luke or the Slim Darryl and roll those cuffs high. 

Penny Loafers

If none of the options above catch your fancy, and especially if words like rugged and casual are anathema to your personal style, consider the loafer. Smart and elegant, loafers will be just the ticket if you regularly pair denim with anything that needs to be ironed. Look for something a little chunky with a round rather than a pointed toe. For a way-back throwback, go with white socks. Our preference, though, is for bare ankles. 

**Picture from Okayama Denim**

Horsebit and tassled loafers will add a bit of flash, but the king of the category is the penny loafer. H.G. Bass can call their Weejuns the original penny loafer without blushing, and they are remarkably affordable considering their pedigree. If the slip-on shoe will be a cornerstone of your style, look to top-shelf makers like Alden, Crockett & Jones, and Allen Edmonds.

The look will work best with your most thoroughly faded pair. Slimmer cuts like our Skinny Luke and Slim Darryl will pair effortlessly with loafers. Cuff them high to show off the ankle. If you’ve gone with an extremely chunky loafer, you can experiment with wider cuts like our Tapered Jeremy or Loose Clark.

***

They say that the shoes make the man. This doesn’t mean that you must throw a month’s salary or more into a pair of good shoes—expensive shoes aren’t necessarily stylish ones. It does mean, however, that what we wear on our feet speaks volumes about us, and the right shoes or boots make all the difference. With any of our recommendations above, you’ll be stepping out in the right shoes and the right direction.  

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Selvedge Style Vol. 1: Perfect Above-the-Belt Pairings for Raw Denim https://sosoclothing.se/selvedge-style-vol-1-perfect-above-the-belt-pairings-for-raw-denim/ https://sosoclothing.se/selvedge-style-vol-1-perfect-above-the-belt-pairings-for-raw-denim/#respond Thu, 15 Sep 2022 10:32:46 +0000 https://sosoclothing.se/?p=38329 Selvedge Style Vol. 1: Perfect Above-the-Belt Pairings for Raw Denim Denim is the ultimate come-as-you-are fabric. It isn’t fussy about the company it keeps. It moves effortlessly through the wardrobe, forming friendships with just about everything from faded tees and threadbare flannels to top-shelf dress shirts and blazers. Plain and simple, it’s a casual fashion […]

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Selvedge Style Vol. 1: Perfect Above-the-Belt Pairings for Raw Denim

Denim is the ultimate come-as-you-are fabric. It isn’t fussy about the company it keeps. It moves effortlessly through the wardrobe, forming friendships with just about everything from faded tees and threadbare flannels to top-shelf dress shirts and blazers. Plain and simple, it’s a casual fashion cornerstone.

When we step into the world of well-made denim, though, we begin to see our ratty flannels and band tees through new eyes. Just as our exposure to selvedge denim changes how we see five-pocket jeans, our exposure to denim and workwear artisans shows us that there is a whole world of well-made goods. Brands in this space bring the same degree of care and attention to above-the-belt pieces as they do to below-the-belt ones, and these pieces are the perfect complement to our well-made selvedge.

It’s not uncommon for those who dip a toe in the well-made pool to go on a spree, filling their closets with pieces from their favourite new makers. The result is almost inevitably a closet bursting with pieces that only get a fraction of the attention they deserve. It’s far better to buy and wear each piece slowly and deliberately. 

These articles will help you do this. We’ll look at the core pieces in selvedge style. If you’re considering investing in a well-made wardrobe, these are the pieces to start with. Let’s start the ball rolling with a look at some of the most adaptable above-the-belt pieces. 

More Denim

It is one of the denim scene’s most enduring questions: How much is too much of a good thing? Style experts look down their nose at the Canadian tuxedo, but only the most conservative style authorities say that one piece of denim is the limit. We all know that nothing goes better with a denim western shirt or a denim jacket than a pair of blue jeans, but we also know that double denim can quickly turn into a fashion disaster. Where’s the line?

There’s nothing to keep you from piling denim pieces on top of each other, provided that you introduce some contrast into the outfit. If you’re pairing a dark-coloured jacket and jeans, wear the jacket open and break up the ocean of dark blue with a light-coloured tee or henley. If, like McQueen and Eastwood, you’re pairing a denim shirt with jeans, make sure there’s a clear difference in the shades of the two pieces.

Remember that the dreaded Canadian tuxedo is a product of matching denim pieces. When doubling up on denim, don’t match. Instead, coordinate with contrasting shades. The contrast doesn’t have to be dramatic, but it should be obvious.

Flannels

Plaid has two spiritual homes. Though the woven pattern may have been born in Scotland, it reached its stylish apogee in the forests of the Pacific Northwest. The man who wore it best wasn’t a man at all. He was a mythic folk hero armed with an axe and a prodigious appetite: Paul Bunyan.

The most popular images of Bunyan have him in denim trousers, suspenders, and his signature red and black plaid. It’s a look deeply associated with the lumberjacks of the northern woods, and its popularity among bearded hipsters in the early 2000s led to a distinct fashion subcategory: the lumbersexual.

While the lumberjack style may not be as ubiquitous as it once was, today’s heritage makers remain fixated on the combination of denim and flannel—and for good reason. The softness of the brushed cotton is a perfect complement to the rigidity of selvedge denim, and the bold and earthy colour combinations give denim lovers a much-needed splash of colour (other than shades of blue).

** Chris Clark in a Samurai Flannel **

Heritage Work Shirts

Unwittingly, photographers at the end of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth were documenting iconic moments in the history of workwear. They captured images of working men either swinging or casually leaning upon the tools of their trade—usually the pickaxe, the shovel, or the hammer. With their calloused insouciance, these men established a standard for working man’s style that is still emulated by many in the heritage scene.

At the core of these looks is the heritage work shirt, which can be distinguished easily thanks to its open chest pockets usually fastened with a single button. Some makers also include extra heritage details like a slot for a pencil on the left chest pocket, a chin strap, and chain-stitch run off at the bottom of the major seams that run down the sides of the shirt.

** Examples of Heritage Work Shirts from Real McCoy’s 8HU and Warehouse **

The most common fabric for the heritage work shirt is chambray. Often confused with denim thanks to its coloured warp and undyed weft, chambray is a plain weave fabric, usually in either light blue or grey. Whether worn tucked in, usually with high-waisted denim, or untucked, it pulls our style deep into the past.

For an even deeper historical pull, reach for either wabash or hickory stripe. These fabrics were used to make the uniforms for competing railroad companies, and brands that want to lean deep into workwear’s old-west roots will often have options in one or both unmistakable patterns. As with chambray, for best results, pair wabash or hickory pieces with looser-fitting vintage-cut denim and engineer boots.

Cotton Basics: Tees, Long-Sleeves, and Henleys

Those who plunge headlong into the world of well-made selvedge denim often find themselves re-evaluating their entire wardrobes. Ratty tees and long-sleeves become subject to new scrutiny. While that band tee that’s been with us since that unforgettable summer festival will still be special to us, beautiful denim cries out for simple and unadorned basics in solid colours.

For great heritage brands, the simple white tee and other cotton basics are nothing less than an art form. Rather than using the shirt as a vehicle for branding or graphics, they keep their focus on the cotton fabric, going out of their way to create soft and supple fabrics that you’ll never want to take off.

For layered looks, these simple cotton pieces are the best starting point you can ask for. The feel of soft cotton against the skin transforms our experience of heavy and rugged fabrics like denim and canvas. The henley, with its buttoned placket often worn open, layers perfectly under heritage work shirts, westerns, or denim jackets, or it can be worn on its own.

**&Sons demonstrating layered looks and Tommy Dant in an Olive Freenote Henley**

Spending a considerable amount on cotton basics might not seem crucial if you’ve already got drawers bursting with tees and long-sleeves. However, most people who experiment with well-made cotton basics never go back.

Our closing advice: If you’ve made the choice to invest in top-shelf denim below the belt, do the same thing for your above-the-belt shirting. Purchase slowly and deliberately and your investment will pay huge style dividends. 

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What’s In a Number? Picking the Perfect Denim Weight https://sosoclothing.se/whats-in-a-number-picking-the-perfect-denim-weight/ https://sosoclothing.se/whats-in-a-number-picking-the-perfect-denim-weight/#comments Thu, 27 Jan 2022 19:53:21 +0000 https://sosoclothing.se/?p=34757 What’s In a Number? Picking the Perfect Denim Weight One of the first things that people new to the scene notice about selvedge denim is the fact that it’s measured in ounces. What does this number mean, and why is it important? In this article, we’ll help you understand the what and why of denim […]

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What’s In a Number? Picking the Perfect Denim Weight

One of the first things that people new to the scene notice about selvedge denim is the fact that it’s measured in ounces. What does this number mean, and why is it important? In this article, we’ll help you understand the what and why of denim weight, and we’ll help you pick a denim weight that’s a good fit for your needs and preferences.

Let’s start with the most obvious question: What does this weight refer to?

Denim weight refers to the weight of the fabric, not the finished product. This weight is measured in ounces per square yard. If you’re used to the metric system, these units of measurement might not mean much. A square yard is a little smaller than a square metre, and an ounce is equivalent to a little more than 28 grams.

This means that a 14oz denim weighs about 475 grams (a little less than half a kilo) per square metre. Our 33oz denim tips the scale at well over a kilo per square metre.

**Heavy Indigo: 25oz SOSO Denim**

Most mass-market denim is in the range of 9-11oz, so moving into selvedge denim is almost always a step up in terms of weight. This leads us to our next question: Is heavier denim better?

Heavier denim costs more to produce (and to buy), but this doesn’t necessarily make it better.
It all comes down to why you wear jeans and what kind of result you want to achieve. If you want denim that stretches like yoga pants or feels like silk against your skin, heavy denims will be a move in the wrong direction. If, however, you want rugged denim that will fade beautifully and remain at the core of your wardrobe for years, heavier denim will absolutely be better.

This brings us to our final question: What denim weight is right for me? We’ve broken down our denim weights into five categories. If you’ve never experimented with heavier-weight denims, read the descriptions below before you take the plunge.

Lightweights: 10-14oz

Denims in this weight range will be the best choice for those who want to walk an easy and familiar path into the world of well-made selvedge. If you’re trying to recreate the feeling of an old, beat-up pair of American denim from the 50s or 60s, this will be the ideal weight range.

The truly classic denims are all in this weight range. For example, the Cone Mills White Oak selvedge that helped turn Levi’s into a household name topped out at 14.5oz. When faded, the denim becomes as thin as paper and as soft as melted butter. It won’t produce thick-lined contrast fades, but it will produce beautiful, all-over vintage fades like the ones below.

**14oz Levi’s 501 Faded by Hung Le Ngoc in Year Two of the Indigo Invitational**

If you have a moderately active lifestyle, you’ll soar through the break-in period in a week or two. You can expect that lightweight denim will need repairs after 250-300 wears (perhaps earlier if you work or play hard). After a few hundred wears, the seat, crotch, and knees will be tissue thin, so you might have to be careful when sliding into them in the morning.

Middleweights: 15-18oz

Denims at this weight are a great introduction to the world of well-made selvedge—so good, in fact, that a lot of people who experiment with denims in this weight are so satisfied that they never try anything else. If you want sharp whiskers, honeycombs, and stacks, but you don’t want the discomfort that comes with heavyweight denim, this will be your sweet spot.

**A 17oz pair of Strike Gold 3109 faded by Florent Lefeuvre in last year’s Indigo Invitational**

If you wear a pair of middleweights every day, you should be through the break-in period within a month or so. You’ll see faint lines appearing behind the knees and across the top block. These will become more and more pronounced with each passing week. Keep an eye on the crotch for blowouts, which might become a problem after around 200 wears.

At this weight, you’ll have to take more care with washing your denim. Lightweight denim can be thrown in the wash without much thought, but careless washing will mar the fades you’re developing on your middleweight pairs. Hold off on that first wash until your jeans really need it. Wash them inside out on your washing machine’s coldest setting, and make sure to turn off the spin cycle. Hang them to dry.

Heavyweights: 19-21oz

If you’ve been drawn to this category by either the incredible high-contrast fades that heavy denim can help you produce or its extreme durability, be aware that there are a few caveats.
The first is the comfort. If you’re jumping from lightweight to heavyweight denim in a single step, the first week wearing heavyweight denim might catch you off guard. The backs of your hands will be raw from sliding your hands in and out of your pockets, and your thumbs will be sore from fastening the buttons.

Heavyweight denim demands patience. The break-in period will probably last for at least 4-6 weeks (perhaps longer if you’re wearing them intermittently). And this is still only the beginning of the journey. Once they have become comfortable, you’ll need to wear them day after day to develop the kind of high contrast fades that they can produce.

**A 19oz pair of Iron Heart 666 faded by Herman Rahman in last year’s Indigo Invitational**

If you are prone to impatience, stick with the middleweights. If you can be patient, though, the rewards will make all the waiting more than worthwhile. After 8-10 months, you’ll have a pair that looks and feels like nothing else you’ve ever worn before. Stick with them, and they’ll just keep getting better and better. If you can put 500 wears into them (washing them rarely along the way), they’ll be an absolute work of art.

Sizing Up for Comfort: When crossing into super-heavyweight territory, we recommend sizing up. When the denim is both heavy and tight, it is unlikely you’ll make it to the other side of the break-in period.

Super Heavyweights: 22-25oz

This is not a category to leap into without first experimenting with other weights—not without a word of warning from us at least. At this weight, denim starts to feel more like armour than clothing. When it is crisp and raw, it fights you each time you bend your knees or sit down.

You will have to wait quite a while for the denim to become comfortable. Expect to measure the break-in period in months rather than weeks. Impatient faders might try to push this process along with frequent washing, but this will dramatically limit your ability to produce sharp contrasts. If you want the fades, you’ll have to sweat for them.

**Double-Fronted 25oz SOSOs worn by Frederick Vande Weygaerde in the Invitational**

At this weight, the fades are spectacular. Heavyweight denim produces bold fade patterns. If you’re wondering why denimheads would subject themselves to the long break-in period, the faded examples should provide a definitive answer to your question.

Challenge Weight: 33oz

Our heaviest denim was something of a challenge we gave to ourselves. We wanted to produce the heaviest denim in the world, and, with the help of our manufacturing partners, we rose to the challenge.

We don’t recommend this denim for newcomers to the selvedge scene. Some of those who make the attempt find that the denim is simply too much for them. If you have soft skin, this denim is heavy enough to cause bleeding behind the knees, so be warned.

**The author in his brand new pair of 33oz SOSO Breaker of Legs**

The 33oz Breaker of Legs is for those who want to make a bold statement about their love of denim. It looks as heavy as it feels, and it definitely draws attention. Be prepared to answer questions about your heavy jeans (especially when you’re passing through airport security).

We’ve worked hard to match heavyweight construction with heavyweight denim, so you can be sure that these will go the distance. It’s a long road to bring the absolute best out of this pair, but your patience will be rewarded. If you can put the work in, these jeans will be like nothing else in your collection. Are you up for the challenge?
***

We’re constantly updating our denim selection. Heavyweights and superheavyweights don’t come around very often, and they’re in high demand when they do. If you’re keen to try something in a heavier weight but don’t see a denim that’s a good match for your needs or preferences, drop us a line here. We’ll let you know when we’re expecting something in the weight you’re looking for.

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The Break-In Breakdown: The Five Stages You’ll Pass Through When Breaking In Raw Denim https://sosoclothing.se/the-break-in-breakdown-the-five-stages-youll-pass-through-when-breaking-in-raw-denim/ https://sosoclothing.se/the-break-in-breakdown-the-five-stages-youll-pass-through-when-breaking-in-raw-denim/#comments Mon, 01 Nov 2021 21:57:11 +0000 https://sosoclothing.se/?p=33152 The Break-In Breakdown: The Five Stages You’ll Pass Through When Breaking In Raw Denim When you first slide your legs into a crisp pair of raw denim, you are taking your first steps on a long journey. The first steps on this journey are slow and (to be frank) a little painful. To be fully enjoyed, though, […]

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The Break-In Breakdown: The Five Stages You’ll Pass Through When Breaking In Raw Denim

When you first slide your legs into a crisp pair of raw denim, you are taking your first steps on a long journey. The first steps on this journey are slow and (to be frank) a little painful. To be fully enjoyed, though, raw denim needs to go through this process. If we want to enjoy the full benefits of a beautifully faded pair, we can’t take a shortcut. Whether we’re on our first or our fiftieth pair, we all must pass through these five stages when we’re breaking in a new pair of raw denim.

The Hurdle (30-50 wears)

The first thing that those new to raw denim have to get their heads around is the fact that, with raw denim, comfort and beauty are not purchased—they are earned. This is most apparent when the pairs are brand new. They might be stiffer than everything you’ve ever worn before.
The tips of your fingers might be sore from struggling with the top button, and sliding your hands in and out of your pockets will leave the backs of your hands feeling raw and chapped.
Every time you take your pair off at the end of the day, it will feel as though you’ve been in a fight.

1 Month in these Double-Fronted 25oz Beasts Worn by Frederick Vande Weygaerde in Year 2 Indigo Invitational.

This is The Hurdle, and we cannot get to the next stages until we have cleared it. There are a few ways we can accelerate our progress through this stage. We can soak the denim before wearing it, which helps get rid of some of the starch that contributes to the denim’s stiffness. This might mean sacrificing some of the more dramatic contrast fades, but a lot of faders swear by this method.

If you’re choosing to keep your jeans dry, the first month will be a struggle. Any activities that force the denim to flex and stretch will help you get up and over The Hurdle inside of this first month. Hop on the bike and take your jeans for a long ride, take the stairs whenever possible, or simply do squats and deep knee bends to help you clear The Hurdle in a hurry.

The Long Straight (50-150 wears)

Not everybody clears The Hurdle, so if you make it this far, you can pat yourself on the back, but there’s still a lot of track ahead of you. When you reach the Long Straight, the jeans have started to relax around the waistband and behind the knees. We can slide our hands in and out of the pockets without wincing, and we can fasten the top button without a struggle. Putting on our jeans and taking them off is starting to become more of a pleasure than a pain.

After 4 Months, Frederick has Cleared that Hurdle and Jogging Down the Long Straight.

It’s during the Long Straight that we fully set our creases and really start to see fades emerging on our thighs, in the seat, and across the top block. Here’s the thing, though. This process is very slow. The indigo chips off microscopic piece by microscopic piece, and it might feel as though we’re marching in place.

We need to be patient, to stay the course with our pair, and we can’t rush them into the wash in the hopes that the water will hurry the fades along. Unless you want those all-over washed- out vintage fades (a product of frequent washing), you should keep your jeans dry until the next stage. Newbies tend to rush that first wash, and the disappointing results teach them just how important it is to run their jeans on that ragged edge for as long as possible before that first wash.

If you spill something on your jeans, give them a spot clean with a damp cloth. If they get a little muddy, let them dry and then brush them off. If they start to smell a little sour, turn them inside out and hang or lay them in the sun. The UV bath is often enough to freshen them up and keep them rolling towards the next stage.

The Big Reveal (150-250 wears)

This is by far the most exciting stage in the process. You’ve done the heavy lifting, clearing The Hurdle and jogging down that Long Straight, and now it’s time to reap your rewards with the first wash. A good rule of thumb is to hold off on that first wash until you’ve crossed the 150- wear line, but we like to push it just a little further than this, aiming for six months of wear.
By this point, the thighs should have what looks like a glossy topcoat that glints in the light at certain angles.

6 Months in and Frederick Has Got His Pair Right Where He Wants Them.

Ride this glossy stage for a few weeks or even months, but not much longer than this. If you push it too far, you’ll be looking at diminishing returns. The rough particles of dirt and dust that have worked their way into the fibres will cause your jeans to rip and fray prematurely if left to their own devices for too long. If small holes start to emerge in the crotch or on the creases around and behind the knees, it’s almost certainly time for that first wash.

Wash them inside out on your machine’s coldest setting, using a gentle and colour-safe detergent. Most importantly, make sure to turn off your machine’s spin cycle. The spin cycle will leave unwanted and unsightly vertical streaks in your denim.

They’ll come out of the machine dripping wet. Straighten them out and hang them to dry. Wait until they’re bone dry to put them back on. The difference should be immediately obvious. The glossy topcoat is gone, and the white core of the cotton yarns will have its turn to shine. You should be able to see sharp contrasts between faded and unfaded areas. They’re far from fully faded at this stage, but it should be abundantly clear where they’re heading.

Fade Town (250-350 wears)

By the time you’ve reached the city limits of Fade Town, you’ve spent 8-10 months in your jeans. You have been through a lot together, and it shows. You’ll have pronounced fade lines in the top block, behind the knees, and where your denim stacks up around your ankles. There should also be significant lightening on the thighs, on the seat, and on the back of your calves.

After 8 Months, Frederick is Enjoying the Sun in Fade Town.

The progress is still slow and steady at this stage, but you can feel things starting to accelerate.
The faded areas are spreading, turning dark indigo into lighter shades of blue, and the creases grow more pronounced with each passing day.

With the fade patterns fully set, you can be a little more liberal with your wash schedule. Some faders wash their pairs every six months or so, but waiting this long isn’t entirely necessary. A good rule of thumb is to wash them whenever they got properly dirty. If that glossy topcoat comes back, this is a good sign that they’re ready for another wash. If folks start complaining about the smell, it’s definitely time to freshen them up. Use the same washing technique we outlined above.

Denim Heaven (350+ wears)

At the centre of Fade Town, there’s a small square. This is Denim Heaven, and far too faders get this far. The streets of Fade Town are lined with shops selling beautiful crisp pairs of raw denim, and, once you’ve been through the process, these new pairs are too tempting for new denim lovers to resist. They purchase two or three new pairs, and the pair that brought them to Fade Town falls to the bottom of a deep rotation.

After 11 Months Fredrick is Knocking on Denim Heaven’s Door.

We understand the appeal. We sell raw denim because we fell head over heels in love with the process, and some pairs are just too beautiful to resist. If you want to reach Denim Heaven, though, it won’t be with a half-dozen pairs of brand-new denim stuffed under each arm. You need to resist the pull of new pairs and dance with the one who brought you until you both collapse, sweaty and exhausted, on the floor.

This takes at least a full year of daily wear, and the pay-off makes all the time you have invested in your pair more than worthwhile. The denim is butter-soft and, in places, it might be paper thin. You can, if you like, extend the life of your jeans with careful repairs, turning your fully faded jeans into a masterpiece of your own making.

It’s only when we reach Denim Heaven that we can finally say that we’ve done justice to our jeans, and it’s what we hope for every time we send a pair out the door. We want to see you take one pair of SOSOs to Denim Heaven and then come back for a second.

They are stylish beyond measure. life can be extended with careful repairs. When these repairs start to overlap, the jeans become a beautiful and entirely unique work of art. After a full year of wear (a little longer with heavyweights), you’ll have a pair of butter-soft and fully faded jeans that all have shelves groaning under the weight of new pairs, but it’s simply too tempting to start a new pair.

**A beautifully hand-repaired pair of Shockoe Ateliers**

Are you ready to start your denim journey with a pair of sosobrothers jeans? Start by finding your fit and size!

The post The Break-In Breakdown: The Five Stages You’ll Pass Through When Breaking In Raw Denim appeared first on SOSO Clothing.

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